Destination No. 03 — Liguria, Italy
Portofino
A harbour the size of a square, ringed by pines.
Portofino is small: a half-round harbour, a few lanes, then woodland. The boats arrive during the day, the village empties around seven, and what remains is a bay with church bells and cicadas.
Those who stay here usually stay above it — in the hills among the pines, with a view of the harbour and a path down that is a pleasure to walk in the evening. The neighbouring towns, Santa Margherita and Camogli, are more everyday and often the better choice for lunch.
Why we like this place
Three reasons
01
Because the nature reserve begins immediately behind the village: paths to San Fruttuoso that almost nobody walks.
02
Because swimming happens from rocks and platforms rather than beaches — which keeps the coast quiet.
03
Because it is one of the few addresses on the Riviera where grandeur and village life still sit side by side.
For planning
- Best time to visit
- Late May to early July, September
- June brings warm water with manageable numbers; September is the quietest good moment. August is full and expensive, and many houses close from November to March.
- Suggested length
- Three to four nights
- Three nights are enough for the bay, one walk and two long lunches. Longer if you take a boat and follow the coast towards the Cinque Terre.
What do travellers overlook here?
The hours. Between eleven and five the harbour fills with day visitors; early morning and after dusk the village belongs to itself again. Equally underrated: the coastal walk to San Fruttuoso and the boats to Camogli. With only two nights, keep at least one morning for the water.
Noted by Pure Voyage
Pure Voyage Atlas
Where this leads
The Atlas connects what belongs together: the region, the collections, the right season and the houses that sit within the same story.
Related Houses
Within These Collections
When to Go
The Region
Where we stay
Addresses in this region
One address above the harbour that has shaped the village for decades without overwhelming it.
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Where to go from here
Not a catalogue, but a next step: the houses, routes, countries and essays we would mention at this point in a conversation.
Hotels
Addresses that belong beside this page.
Journeys
Routes that open up this region.
Recommendations
What we suggest for this occasion.
Journal
Further reading before you decide.
An Invitation
Once a month: hotels, new openings and travel ideas
One hotel that convinced us, with our advice on suite and season. The openings that actually matter. And a destination at its best right now. No offers, no advertising.